Archive for the ‘Free patterns’ Category

A colleague and I got chatting about alpaca jumpers. He told me that his white alpaca jumper always gets strange stains that seem to come out of nowhere and that another of his has got moth holes. I love alpaca and therefore, because you can’t let things go to waste, I offered to mend it. So he brought it in. I noticed it was a kind of Brioche stitch and said it would be difficult but doable. Sometimes I really don’t know what I’m letting myself in for. When I had a closer look at home I noticed it was some sort of honeycomb brioche (well, so I thought). I think I last knitted a brioche stitch more than 20 years ago and certainly not a complicated one like this. I wasn’t prepared to flaunt it, so I decided I had to undergo some training.  I first looked up the stitch pattern and did a little swatch, which wasn’t too painful, but wasn’t enough for me to really understand the pattern. I had to do something bigger.

I had wanted to make hot water bottle covers for my mother and my brother for Christmas but hadn’t got round to it. What better excuse to make them, though after Christmas, then to try a stitch pattern. I got out the rest of the light blue wool that I had used for my mother’s Curve of Pursuit afghan and got started. I really struggled with this pattern. Sometimes a stitch seemed to disappear and I couldn’t figure out what had happened. And then two thirds along the way I saw I had made a very visible mistake at the bottom. I had knitted a yo in the wrong row. So, there I was fighting with myself what to do. Shall I open that column up and try to fix it? Would I be successful? Or would I fail and have to rip open everything anyway? Or would I be able to live with that mistake? Or more importantly, would my mother be able to live with that mistake? Or would I just cut the yarn, fix the mistake and try and thread the ends? Being completely crazy I chose to open up the column and… succeeded. I’m still mightily pleased with myself. When I got out my colleague’s jumper to fix it I noticed I had practiced the wrong brioche stitch. It looked more like Moss brioche stitch, but the principle is much the same.


gray cover: 1 skein 100 g gray Ethical Twist yarn (70% wool, 30% alpaca, 240m/100g,)

light blue cover: 100g light blue wool slub (100% wool, about 12 wpi)

Notions: double pointed needles size 5 mm, 5,5 mm and 6 mm . Threading needle.

Gauge: honeycomb brioche (done on 6 mm needles) 11 st x 19 rows (gray)  and 10 st x 18 rows (light blue) = 10 cm square.

The cover is knit in the round without any increases or decreases. To shape the corners smaller needles are used. Because there are so many different hot water bottles out there no measurements are given. Remember though to make and wash a swatch so that you don’t end up with something of the size of a children’s jumper in the end. As small as a project may be, wash your swatch!

The honeycomb brioche stitch is taken from ‘the brioche stitch’ website but adapted for knitting in the round.

With 5 mm needles cast on 24 stitches (or any even number of stitches needed). Knit 24 stitches on one side then knit 24 stitches out of the bottom of the cast on stitches on the other side. Knit in the round from now on.

Foundation round 1: *k1, yf sl1 yo purlwise, rep from *

Foundation round 2: *k1, k the stitch behind the yo and sl the yo purlwise, rep from *.

Round 1: * yf sl1 yo purlwise, brp1, repeat from *

Round 2: * k the stitch behind the yo and sl the yo purlwise, k1, repeat from*

Round 3: * brp1, yf sl1 yo purlwise, repeat from *

Round 4: * k1, k the stitch behind the yo and sl the yo purlwise, repeat from*

Repeat rounds 1-4 twice then switch to 6 mm needle and knit until the next corner is reached. Switch to 5.5 mm needle and knit rounds 1-4 at least once. End with round 1 or 3.

Start the neck by kfb for every yo and pfb for every k in the round below.

Then ktb and ptb every round for about 20 cm or as long as required.

Cast off and thread.


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I had a bout of crochet in the last three weeks. I have to say I like crochet as much as knitting. But there is a distinct difference in preference. Big things I like to knit and small things I prefer to crochet. Never in my life have I managed to finish a crochet jumper. They always ended up to be frogged again. Though I like crochet as much as knitting I was very reluctant to take it up when I was a child, although I’ve learned it of course.  The only crochet I seemed to knew when I was little consisted of ugly square cushions in a friend’s house made in white, red and blue acrylic. What a colour combination and what a yarn. Even then I suffered each time my eyes inadvertently glance over them in the friend’s living room. Only later in my childhood I noticed that my grandmother pursued the art of crocheting handkerchief edgings.  I never took up making handkerchief edgings myself but I think that my grandmother’s pastime saved the thought of crochet as a worthwhile pursuit for me.

I always wanted to have a pincushion. When I see a nice one in the shops I always think I can make that myself but then I never make it myself. But three weeks ago I got completely fed up with all my sewing and threading needles that are usually floating about everywhere in my room. I’m too messy to put them nicely back into their dedicated place, the drawer with all my accessories. So, I thought, it’s now or never and it has to be in the shape of a fly agaric. I love fly agarics. They stand for good luck in Germany. People nowadays have them as decoration for Christmas, New Year and Easter. They are always around somehow, like pigs and ladybirds, equally regarded as lucky charms in Germany. Though I have to say, I made a big mistake and showed it to my son. It’s now not my pincushion but his cuddly toy. Well, bad luck, eh?

The yarn are odd balls from an old red cardigan of mine, that meanwhile became a crochet hat, the beginnings of a tea cosy (just started) and something else that I can’t remember anymore. The white yarn is a lately acquired jumper that turned out to be so scratchy that I decided it could go the recycling path.

Fly Agaric Pattern

Materials: Odd balls of red and white. I chose some angora/lambswool mix, about 300m/50g. A crochet hook 2.5mm, UK/US 0, threading needle.

Stalk: (with white yarn) make 4 ch, close chain.
Round 1: dc 12 into loop.
Round 2: increase every other dc
Round 3: increase every third dc
Round 4: increase every fourth dc
Round 5: increase every fifth dc
Round 6: increase every sixth dc
Round 7and 8: dc
Round 9:decrease every sixth dc
Round 10: decrease every fifth dc
Round 11: dc
Round 12: decrease every fourth dc
Round 13: decrease every third dc
Round 14: dc in the round for about 3 cm or however long you want the stalk to be.
Thread all ends, except for the working end of course, before you start the gills otherwise you will not be able to do it later or only with some difficulty.

Gills: (continue with white yarn) make a chain of 11 ch.
Row 1: 11 half trebles, 1dc in next dc of stalk, 1 ch, turn.
Row 2: 11 half trebles, 1 ch, turn
Repeat rows 1 and 2 23 times around the stalk.
Row 49: like row 1.
Close the gills sewing  row 1 and row 49 together.


Cap: (Red and white yarn)

Basic pattern of the cap: (with red yarn) make 4 ch, close chain.
Round 1: 10 dc into loop.
Round 2: 5 increases every other dc.
Round 3 until round 23 round increase by 5 until. You have now  got 120 dc.

Bobbles: Crochet the bobbles dispersed all over the cap while following above basic pattern. How to make a bobble: With red yarn make loop through next dc, finish the the dc with white yarn. Then make three double trebles into next dc with white yarn, each time not finishing the double treble on the last loop. Finish all double trebles together with the red yarn.  Decide yourself where to make the bobbles. I made 33 bobbles.

Finishing: Thread ends, again except for the working end. Crochet the cap onto the gills with red yarn leaving a hole for the filling. You need to decide in advance which loops on the rim of the gills to use. Stuff the mushroom in such a way that the filling is quite dense and will hold needles. Close the hole and thread. You can shape the fly agaric a little bit by squeezing it and even do a bit of sewing if you wanted it to stay in a particular shape. But I only sqeezed a little.

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I finished the second version of the Fair & Square shawl. I made it a bit narrower but longer this time and crocheted beads into the edging.

My wardrobe door really has wholes in it. The wardrobe can double as an airing cupboard

My wardrobe door really has wholes in it. The wardrobe can double as an airing cupboard

This is just a mobile phone photo. In real life the shawl is absolutely breathtakingly delicate. When I hung the blocked shawl on my wardrobe door I became completely speechless and was hopping about in my room for at least half an hour, so happy was I.

So, I thought I had to top that off with the right packaging. I bought a nice cardboard box, glued pink paper on the lid because I think pink goes so well with this green (actually, to be precise, the lid got slightly smutched in transit), folded the shawl nicely, put a cedar wood ball in the box (moths are about at the moment) and crocheted a ribbon with beads at each end:

Fair & Square in a box

Fair & Square in a box

I don’t know who was more chuffed about it all, my friend or I.

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I made this lace shawl for my mum in record time last year but never managed to write the pattern. But when I got Knit Visualizer I was able to make a chart very quickly and put it all together. I’m still working on the pattern for Madeira Leaf but thought I can post this meanwhile, because the sun is shining and it’s 1st of May. I adapted the Fair & Square pattern as an overall pattern from a picture of a knitting edging that I had found somewhere but that had no stitch pattern. I liked it as an edging but was intrigued to see whether I could make it into an overall pattern without original instructions.

Recycled cashmere jumper in purple, about 600m per 50g;
one 24 inch/80cm long US #3/3.25mm circular needle or double pointed needles (but I hate working with those);
one crochet hook size US G/6/4mm;
waste yarn; threading needle.

Correct gauge is not essential for this project. The finished shawl is about 57cm by 110cm (24 stitches by 33 rows = 10 cm²).

Cast on 138 stitches using a crochet cast on with waste yarn. 138 stitches equal 8½ pattern repeats plus 2 stitches (see chart). Knit a few rows stockinett stitch. These serve two purposes. Firstly, they make it easier to start the actual lace pattern. Secondly, the rows are opened up later and used for the crochet edging. Work 16½ pattern repeats in length (see chart).

Open the crochet cast on, open up the first few stockinette rows carefully and put the stitches on a spare needle. Start the crochet edging beginning with the first two stitches. 1dc in first two stitches, *3ch, 1 picot, 3ch, 1dc in next 2 stitches, repeat from *. Work this edging on the other side.

Wash and block carefully. Thread ends.


Please note that you are free to use and alter this pattern for individual use but not for commercial use. If you change the pattern and publish it don’t forget to mention where you got it from originally.

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I wanted to make a cover for my brother’s iPod. Now, I couldn’t remember which iPod he had and started off with an iPod nano cover. It turns out he has an iPod classic. Well, something for the next few days to figure out, I guess. If you do not have an iPod nano yourself but would like some guidance on the size you can glue your own iPod nano paper template together.

Cabled iPod nano cover pattern

This cover is worked in the round with a somewhat difficult cast on as already described for the pink toe-up mobile pouch.

You need:

Four double pointed needles 3mm. Odd ends of laceweight yarn, about  600m/100g. I used lambswool from an old olive vest.

Cast on 17 sts without making a knot into first st. Turn needle vertically and knit 16 sts out of cast on sts. Slip 17th st off the first needle. You should now have 16 sts on each side or 32 sts altogether. Alternatively you could cast on 32 stitches and sew them together when finished knitting the cover.

Round 1: 3p, 2k, 2p, 2k, 2p, 2k, 6p, 2k, 2p, 2k, 2p, 2k, 3p.

Round 2: 3p, 2k, 2p, 2k, 2p, 2k, 6p, 2k, 2p, 2k, 2p, 2k, 3p.

Round 3: 3p, slip next 4sts on cable needle, 2k, slip 2p from cable needle onto left needle and 2p, k2 from cable needle, 2p, 2k, 6p, slip next 4sts on cable needle, 2k, slip 2p from cable needle onto left needle and 2p, k2 from cable needle, 2p, 2k, 3p.

Round 4 to 8: 3p, 2k, 2p, 2k, 2p, 2k, 6p, 2k, 2p, 2k, 2p, 2k, 3p.

Round 9: 3p, 2k, 2p, slip next 4sts on cable needle, 2k, slip 2p from cable needle onto left needle and 2p, k2 from cable needle, 6p, 2k, 2p, slip next 4sts on cable needle, 2k, slip 2p from cable needle onto left needle and 2p, k2 from cable needle, 3p.

Round 10 to 14:  3p, 2k, 2p, 2k, 2p, 2k, 6p, 2k, 2p, 2k, 2p, 2k, 3p.

Repeat rounds 3 to 14 4 times.

Round 63: as round 3

Round 64 and 65: as round 4.

Cast off. Sew threads.

Of course you can make this cover as long as you want. The number of rounds is just a suggestion. You could as well make a cover for a recorder, a mobile, or your knitting needles. My patterns are not for those who follow instructions by the letter. Give it a go. Try other yarns and needle sizes. Take the pattern further and modify it for your own purposes.

Copyright Karin Haack at recycleknit@wordpress.com

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Mobiles get bashed up in the bag quite a bit. If you are not one of those who feel the need to change their mobile every half a year and try the ecological approach of keeping it for longer, but still fancy it to be in mint condition, I can only recommend the use of a pouch. Since I have my phone I kept it in a pouch. My mobile is still in without scratches after 3 years of use. But I thought it’s about time to make a new pouch. Even the hardest of ecological knitters does not need to use her mobile pouch until it falls apart.

I chose a couple of small balls of the Great Gatsby pink cashmere wool, doubled to make a thicker yarn.  The pink ribbon is recycled too. It was one of the couple of loops originally used in the cashmere jumper for putting the jumper on the hanger.

The pouch is worked like a toe-up sock, so, a toe-up mobile pouch. There are no seems whatsoever, if you fancy working in one piece, and I certainly do.
You will need some skill knitting something small with double pointed needles in the round. If you are used to knitting socks with double pointed needles you should be fine approaching something more fiddly. If you’ve not used double pointed needles for working in the round before, this pattern will be a bit of a challenge, especially in the beginning.


Yarn:  Recycled cashmere yarn, about 350m to 400m (380 to 440 yd)/50g.

Needles: 4 double pointed knitting needles 3mm (UK 11, US 3), 1 crochet hook 2.5mm (UK 12, US B or C).

Other things needed:  Pink ribbon about 5mm wide and 20cm long. Some Velcro. Pink thread and a sewing needle or fabric glue. Threading needle.

Bottom: Cast on 17 sts without making a knot at the beginning. Turn the work vertically and take 16 sts out of the bottom of the cast on sts. Discard the 17th cast on on the first needle. You now have 16 sts on each side.Knit one round. Knit 2nd round as follows: 1k, make1, 14k, make1, 1k; do the same on the second needle. You now have 18 sts on each needle. knit another 2 rounds.

Body: start stitch pattern.
Round 1: * P 3 tog without slipping the stitch from the needle, kit tog, then purl tog again, k3, repeat from * 6 times.
Rounds 2 to 6: knit.
Round 7: * K3, P 3 tog without slipping the stitch from the needle, kit tog, then purl tog again, k3, repeat from * 6 times.
Round 8 to 12: knit.
Knit stitch pattern 4 times.

Crochet edging: ch first two sts together, 3ch, 1dc in first of 3ch, 1ch, *1dc in next two sts, 3ch, 1dc in first ch, 1ch* repeat from * 16 times. Fasten off with one ch into first ch of edging.

Thread ends.

Sew or glue Velcro into pouch just below the edging. Thread ribbon through the holes made by the edging. Make a loop into ribbon without tightening it (the pouch is fastened with the velcro). Make the loop permanent by sewing or glueing it.

Copyright Karin Haack at recycleknit@wordpress.com

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Yarn: Rowan Handknit Cotton,85m/50g, 200g shade 315 (brown). Crochet hook 6mm, US J/10, UK 4. Threading needle.

Bottom: cast on 48 ch and dc 16 rows.

Body: crocheted in the round.

Round 1: 1ch, dc 48 on first long side of bottom, then crochet 16dc from the 1st side panel, dc 48 on the other long side, dc16 in the 2nd side panel, end round with 1ch into 1st dc.

Round 2 start pattern: 1ch, 1dc in first 3dc, 5ch, miss 3dc, *1dc in next 5dc, 5ch, miss 3dc, repeat  from *, end with 1 dc in last 2dc, ch into 1st dc.

Round 3: 1ch, 1dc in first 2dc, 3ch, 1dc in 5ch arch, 3ch, *miss 1dc, 1dc in next 3dc, 3ch, 1dc in 5ch arch, 3ch, repeat from *, end with 1dc in last dc, 1ch in first dc.

Round 4: 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 3ch, 1dc in 3ch arch, 1dc in dc, 1dc in 3ch arch, 3ch, * miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc, 3ch, 1dc in 3ch arch, 1dc in next dc, 1dc in 3ch arch, 3ch, repeat from *, end round with 1ch in 1st dc.

5th round: 5ch, 1dc in 3ch arch, 3dc, 1dc in 3ch arch, *5ch, 1dc in 3ch arch, 3dc, 1dc in 3ch arch, repeat from *, end round with 3ch, 1ch in 5ch arch.

6th round:  1ch, *1dc in 5ch arch, 3ch, miss 1dc, 1dc into next 3dc, 3ch, repeat from *, end round with 1ch into 1st dc.

7th round: 1ch, 1dc in 1st dc, 1dc in next 3ch arch, 3ch, *miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc, 3ch, 1dc in 3ch arch, 1dc in next dc, 1dc in 3ch arch, 3ch, repeat from *, end with miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc, 3ch, 1dc in last 3ch arch, 1ch in 1st dc.

8th round: 1ch, 1dc in 1st  2dc, 1dc in next 3ch arch, 5ch, *1dc in next 3ch arch, 1dc in next 3dc, 1dc in next 3ch arch, 5ch, repeat from*, end with1dc in next 3 arch, 1dc in last dc, 1ch in first dc.

Repeat rounds 3 to 8. Work stitch pattern 6 times. End with round 3. Next round work 1ch,  2dc in next 2dc, *2dc in 3 arch,1dc in next 3dc, 2dc in 3 arch, 1dc in next dc, repeat from*, end with 2dc in 3 arch, 1ch in 1st dc. Work 4 rounds dc.

Handle: you need two about 33cm long bamboo sticks or anything else you can find at that length. Turn work and crochet handle onto the front panel as follows: 1dc into the next 15dc working around the handle, miss 18dc, 15dc around handle only, 1dc in next 15dc working around the handle, 1ch, turn work, 1dc in next 45dc, bind off. Do the same on other side.
Sew threads.

Happy Shopping!

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